Just like the food and the skiing (yes, the skiing!) Greeks insist that their wine is the best in the world. As a result, you will have a very hard time finding anything either in shops or restaurants from as far afield as France, let alone the New World.

Kefalonia itself boasts a number of wineries, most of which produce some very respectable wines, both red and white. The most celebrated grape variety on the island is Robola, and you will find this wine on offer everywhere you go. The only trouble is that the grape is no guarantee of the quality, and, in any event, even the best Robola's will not be to everybody tastes. The other problem is the prices - which will come as a shock to those of you used to Chilean and Australian wines - so you can easily end up forking out a king's ransom for a distinctly average wine.

If you are prepared to do the research, however (many of the wineries do tastings), you may very well be able to find something local which suits both your palate and your pocket. Otherwise, our experience suggests that when you don't recognise anything on the wine list, go for something from Macedonia. It won't necessarily be cheap, but the region produces some of the country's finest wines.

Failing that, why not try out the house wines by the carafe. These are usually perfectly drinkable, and often surprisingly good. The locals also assure us that the freedom from chemicals which are used in bottled wines means a guarantee of a clear head next day. But to us the real bonus is the value for money - so that the 2 times out of ten you get a duff carafe, you hardly mind.