Sadly, all the talk nowadays is of declining fish stocks and over-fishinf by foreign trawlers (sound familiar) - a long way from the halcyon days when the fish used to jump into the boats.

As a result, fish is expensive in Kefalonia, even more so than other areas of Greece - and some places take the opportunity to rip you off.

If you want to cook some yourself, you could do worse than inspect the catches of the boats that line the quay in Argostoli most days. The fish market and the couple of smaller shops always have the cheaper alternative of locally farmed Sea Bream and Sea Bass. If you see fresh lobster, let us know!

If its eating out that you're after, then expect to pay even more. At the cheaper end, the little taverna at Ayia Kiriaki (below Zola) serves nothing but its own catch, with home grown salad and chips.

Lithero, above the habour at one end of Lourdata beach, specialises in fish, and the incomparable Paradise Beach in Ayia Efimia (right at the end of the harbour road) usually have a good selection - and can be relied upon to recommend the freshest and tastiest.

Many other tavernas will also have fresh fish - even if not on a daily basis.

With all of these places the best thing to do is troop into the kitchen to see the catch, and to see your chosen meal on the scales!